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Be Inspired: Arabia’s Mountains
editor’s letter
THE INDOMITABLE CITY • Since the late 19th century, when San Francisco got its cable cars and pastel-hued Victorians, Levi Strauss and Ghirardelli Chocolate, it has been the envy of other cities. So the schadenfreude that has erupted recently over home prices and homelessness, street crime and empty office towers, is nothing new. Yes, this city has real problems, but the line at Powell and Market for the cable car, which turns 150 this year, is still long, and world-class restaurants still seem to open nightly. Boom-and-bust cycles have afflicted the City by the Bay since the Gold Rush, but as surely as the fog will roll through the spans of the Golden Gate Bridge this afternoon, San Francisco will rise again.
Eat Here Now • Relying on the region’s legendary produce and purveyors, a diverse group of the city’s chefs and restaurateurs is redefining California cuisine
Beyond the Bay
THE INSIDER • What inspires Ali Gass, founding director of the free-to-all Institute of Contemporary Art, which opened last October in the Dogpatch area
Stay True • A pair of noteworthy new hotels embody San Francisco’s values and culture
TAKE A HIKE
THE LIFE AQUATIC • In the East African nation of Mozambique, a commitment to marine conservation has helped shape a new kind of ocean safari
BIG TENT PARTY • A new glamping resort in Utah brings another level of luxury to this increasingly popular vacation style
SECOND TO NONE • For the Colombian fashion designer Johanna Ortiz, Cartagena is full of happy memories—and inspiration
A CITY TRANSFORMED • Hong Kong’s long-awaited reopening shines a light on the explosive growth and cultural vibrancy of the Kowloon area
WHERE TO GO ON YOUR NEXT HONG KONG VISIT
LIFE’S A BEACH • Lou Harris, who founded the East Coast chapter of the Black Surfing Association in Rockaway, New York, shares his perfect day in Gotham’s sweetest summer spot
GRAND HOTEL SON NET
HANG LOOSE • Just up the coast from buzzy Biarritz, low-key Hossegor is a beach lover’s paradise
BROADEN YOUR HORIZONS • Nothing reframes your worldview like a cruise. Here are a few resonant examples, from a new chapter in a father-daughter relationship to a fresh way of looking at wild creatures. Plus, the next hot spots, the coolest jobs at sea, and more
NORTHERN EXPLORER • New itineraries from Norway’s beloved Hurtigruten line let travelers slow down and experience the country’s miles of coastline in deeper ways
THE FOODIE WHISPERER
THE MIDDLE EAST
book now, sail (way) later • VOYAGES YEARS FROM NOW ARE SELLING OUT—BUT THERE ARE STILL WAYS TO GET SPOTS ON CRUISES LEAVING SOONER
OVER THE RIVER AND THROUGH THE WOODS • An intimate expedition cruise in the Peruvian Amazon is an unparalleled way to experience one of the planet’s most dynamic ecosystems
THE NAVIGATOR
AUSTRALIA AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC
making the familiar strange • EXPEDITION CRUISING USUALLY MEANS FAR-FLUNG LOCALES LIKE ANTARCTICA, BUT SOME COMPANIES ARE SHOWING GUESTS THAT EVEN WELL-KNOWN WATERS CAN BE FULL OF SURPRISES
NEW ON THE MENU • Oceania Cruises’ just-launched Vista marks the next chapter for the epicurean-minded cruise line. Madison Flager goes onboard to see what’s cooking
THE RESEARCH WHIZ
FRENCH TWIST • On a father-daughter...